you really need to throw away that black plastic spatula
a treatise on kitchen utensils
This newsletter contains:
- a framework for kitchen utensils
- a bunch of vetted recs (spatulas and more)
- thoughts on recent F&B acquisitions
Dear reader,
Two months ago, I had to buy a locker to store my ever-expanding collection of kitchen tools, clear evidence that I have an addiction to purpose-built equipment, picking up and discarding hobbies (and sourdough), and Amazon Prime.
Two weeks ago, three readers wrote in and asked for my take on cookware — must haves, nice-to-haves, and space wasters.
The following evening, a friend revealed that her boyfriend does not own measuring cups, spoons, or basic dry goods (e.g., flour, sugar).
I’m not one to take signs from the universe lightly. You needed my take on kitchen tools asap.
A Framework
Why should you trust me? I’ve probably bought it.
Design Principles
Materials matter: if you’ve been ignoring the clickbait about the plastic spoon hanging out in your brain or that the black spatula set you bought at IKEA in 2017 is killing you, here’s what you need to know:
Unsafe: we are all being exposed to microplastics in the environment, which can interfere with your endocrine system. The scary-sounding flame retardant decabromodiphenyl ether (decaBDE), despite being banned, is commonly found in black plastics, and can cause cancer. Try to limit your intake of both.
Safe: wood, silicone, stainless steel, glass, and un-scratched nonstick pans.
Use your judgement: plastic cutting boards are the easiest to clean, but watch out for nicks.
Value > Brand, for the most part: your identity isn’t tied to your brand of cast iron skillet — just get Lodge. Your kitchen aesthetic, however, may hinge on your Le Creuset color.
Sets vs. eclectic: it’s just like fashion: there’s a time and place for a coordinated set moment, but a well-curated eclectic look will save you money, be more versatile in the long-term, and earn you more (deserved) compliments.
Non-Negotiables
In order to make 99% of recipes with “easy,” “15 min,” or “one pot,” in the title without embarrassing yourself, you need a few basics. Mixing bowls, measuring spoons, cutting boards, and sheetpans are interchangeable for the most part — as long as they are accurate and won’t disintegrate. Invest in the tools that you use everyday:
Knives: you can get away with a cheap knife from Target for a few months, but it won’t hold up for the long haul.
Mid-market pick: the Misen knife set, a favorite of cooking schools and home chefs, is the best I’ve used in the mid-market.
The set you build: start with a Shun utility knife (it will get you hooked), and expand to the 8” chef’s, and pairing. The Nakiri is beautiful and dangerous. Please put them in a block (or chic magnetic strip) and not a drawer.
Spatulas & Spoons:
Flipping: OXO silicone turner flips eggs easily and won’t give you cancer. What more could you want?
Mixing: the get it right (GIR) is aptly named. This silicon spatula is my preferred choice for both scrambling eggs and providing a delivery system for cake batter.
Fish: I’d pay $10 for crispy fish skin, wouldn’t you?
Wooden spoons: support your local artisans by picking them up from the farmers market. If you make enough risotto, I quite like my risotto spoon (looks like this).
Skillets:
Non-stick: a 10” OXO nonstick will do what needs to be done, without the fussiness of stainless and propensity to chip (and also just not look cute?) of ceramic.
Stainless: for a perfect sear, you need a properly heated and greased stainless pan. Practice with an All-Clad and you can level up when you successfully deliver crispy tofu and not ruin your manicure cleaning it.
Cast iron: just get the Lodge.
Splurge: I’ve recently upgraded to some Mauviel pans. While the price is eye-watering, I can attest that the copper core makes them heat up incredibly fast (whatever the equivalent of 0-60 in 3.5 is in cookware) and have the most gorgeous patina that will look luxurious hung around my kitchen whenever I move to the suburbs.
Dutch Oven
Solid: the Made In.
Registry Pick: our good friends David and Alex gave us the Le Creuset Dutch Oven (in Marseille) for our wedding and it remains on the center burner at all times. IMHO, it is the ultimate kitchen workhorse and perfect gift.
Blending device: I could argue that you need both a blender and a food processor, but if you’re going to pick one, pick the one that you’ll use more frequently.
Grabbers: at some point, you’re going to grab something hot. Be a grownup and get yourself some tongs and oven mitts.
Expansion Packs
This category is unlimited, overwhelming, and often a waste of money. I stand by, however, three essentials to improve your cooking or baking.
Cooking
Salt Pig: for getting a pinch of salt, instead of trying to figure out how many cranks of the salt grinder you need.
Spider: think of it as a combination slotted spoon x strainer. The possibilities are endless.
Grill Press: for getting a perfect, even sear.
Baking
Baking Scale: I have this model and it gets the job done, but if someone has a contact at Ozeri, I’d love to talk to them about their color palette.
Bench Scraper: an essential for anyone who bakes bread, pies, or has ever used a knife on a countertop.
Marble Rolling Pin: equally effective at rolling a pie crust, self-defense, or looking good on a shelf.
Joy-Bringers
You don’t need to use the KonMari method on your whole kitchen — but do invest in a few things that bring you joy when you use them or when you look at them. Here are a few of mine for inspo:
Parmesan Wheel Bowl: I picked mine up for $9 in Bologna (online for $35)
Design-y Cookbook Stand: chic and useful.
Pasta Maker: just look at all the things you can make! (and smother in cheese):
Other Stuff & Things
Wonder bought Tastemade (a food media company) for $90M, so you can read an article about their 3-star shawarma before you buy it. But actually, their ambition to be the most convenient food delivery service for every kind of meal — and their acquisition strategy (including GrubHub, Blue Apron) — is smart and has landed them on Fast Company’s Most Innovative Companies list.
Pepsi bought Poppi for $1.95B. Should I restart making soda from scratch in my bathroom? Moonshine Pop coming 2025.
Jonathan Anderson, the genius who brought us tomato leaves soap, Challengers looks, and many excellent food-shaped bags, is stepping down, and we’re all devastated.
This account of going to the grocery store as an agoraphobe is very good. Plus I love when my Classics degree is useful.
- wants her friends to bring her napkins and now I want all my friends to bring me napkins.
Put sourdough discard to good use — in my granola (thanks for the recipe,
!)Trying to find a new hair mask and remembering when I used to DIY them with everything from mayo, olive oil, and avocado to egg white, honey, and ACV and was surprised when no one wanted to sit next to me on the bus.
Finally watched Big Night and can’t stop having intrusive thoughts about my next dinner party: where can I get a suckling pig and would it fit in my oven? If I could make an ultimate stuffed pasta in a pasta shell, what would I put in it? Should I DM Stanley Tucci?
This week, I’m launching a series of Friday newsletters on joy-bringers: everything from the perfect cheese from a small batch dairy, the vintage tea set of your dreams, the occasional sale on quality equipment, and of course, some of the strangest finds on the Internet. If you like it, lmk, if you don’t like it, also lmk. Wednesdays will remain the usual chaos.
Sophia
So fun and useful! Thanks for these pics, love the diagrams
what about kettles!